Making Cables for Digirig Mobile 1.6 and Yaesu FT-1900R (++)

 

Background

I decided to add digital capability to my mobile Yaesu FT-1900R in my pickup. My current portable VHF station is a Leixen VV-898 and a SignaLink. I made a cable for the SignaLink to the Yaesu, and that works fine, but to use it I either have to open up the SignaLink and change the jumpers every time I switch rigs or make another cable that matched the jumpers as they are. In either case I’d be sharing a single interface.

I could buy another Signalink for ~US$135 new or $75 used--and a used device would probably require reconfiguration and/or making or buying  a cable. I had heard good things about the Digirig for ~US$50. I contacted Denis at Digirig and he was very helpful, so I bought one. Now I needed to make a cable. I did, with guidance from Denis. However, I decided to go further to add flexibility to the set up.

Solution

I found some mating screw terminal blocks on Amazon (see parts list), and decided to make four cables, one for each rig and one for each interface, each ending a terminal block. That way, I can use either interface with either rig using the same cables and the same SignaLink jumper settings by just unplugging one cable and plugging in the other.

I need to explain the speaker configuration: If I only had a Digirig, I would not have to use the TS female jack, I would just take everything through the terminal blocks. However, the SignaLink has 5 connections (in my configuration). I wanted the rigs and interfaces to be interchangeable, so I broke out the speaker connection to each interface. Conversely, I could have left the speaker connection to the SignaLink as a separate cable from the external speaker on the rig to the SPKR jack on the SignaLink, but that would not correspond to the wiring for the Digirig, and therefore not be interchangeable.

The discussion here will consider Digirig to FT-1900R. The process is similar. for SignaLink to rig, but there are too many variables to make a general case.

Parts List (just the Digrig to Yaesu set)

Nothing here is a product or source endorsement--these are just examples of what I used. The parts are for my station. The Digirig side will work for any setup, the rig side depends on what your radio.

TRRS plug (3.5mm) 2

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XVDQ5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OR

2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DR4K78X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(a if you’re confident in your soldering skills in tight spaces, b if you want to make it easier on yourself)

1. TS Plug (3.5mm, male)

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y8JHK9P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   

OR

2. TS Cable

   https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMM-310-Same-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B001O5F280/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3HDTFBEZH0DM5&keywords=ts+speaker+cable+3.5mm&qid=1647541351&sprefix=ts+speaker+cable+3.5mm%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-7

(b requires minimal work)

2. TS jack (3.5mm, female)

1.  https://www.amazon.com/Ancable-Connector-Shrinkle-Transceivers-Infrared/dp/B07JP2BT52/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2HE4YBQMCJT9Q&keywords=3.5mm+mono+ts+female+jack+socket&qid=1647530113&sprefix=3.5mm+mono+ts+female+jack+socket+%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-5

(you could also take a 3.5mm TS extension with a female end and cut it in two pieces)

3. RJ12 connector (6P6C)

1. Crimping Connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VYVYY5C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OR

2. Cable  https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-09600-Straight-Modular/dp/B0002J1SUU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rj12+6p6c+cable&qid=1647532091&sr=8-3

(b is less work and doesn't require a special tool)

4. Screw Terminal Blocks

1.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KLMW3XM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=

5. Speaker Wire

1.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWLPDHZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=

6. 24/4 cable

1. https://www.amazon.com/24AWG-UL2464-Yellow-Conductors-2464-24AWG-4C/dp/B07TJG1T2H/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VMPRNAT4BTZQ&keywords=24%2F4+cable&qid=1647544076&sprefix=24%2F4+cable%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-3
   
   

Process

You will need crimping and soldering tools and supplies, as well as tools for wire cutting and stripping. It’s possible to use ready-made cables as mentioned above to reduce the effort, but you WILL need to do a least a little soldering.

Digrig Side

I used all female for this side (terminal block and TS). It doesn’t matter as long as you’re consistent—particularly if you plan to connect this cable to multiple rigs.

1. Solder the TRRS Plug (if you’re NOT using the prepared bare wire set listed above)

1. Separate the protective sleeve from the TRRS plug
2. Cut off a length of 24/4 cable (length of your choosing), strip the outside cable insulation at both ends, then strip each of the inner wires.
3. Tin the inner wires
4. Slide the separated TRRS sleeve onto the cable. If it doesn’t fit, strip off additional cable insulation to reveal enough of the inner wires to allow you to work, and slide the sleeve over the wires.
5. Solder the wires, to the appropriate connections on the separated TRRS plug, noting which color wire goes to which connections. Speaker out will go to the Tip, Mic to R1, PTT to R2, and GND to Sleeve.

2. TRRS connections other than speaker

1. Connect the opposite ends of the Mic and PTT wires from the TRRS to the terminal block (female)—it doesn’t matter which ones, just remember what you did and be consistent from now on. I used the female side of the terminal block pair.
2. Take two short 24AWG wires (black is good), strip and tin the ends and connect one to each of the remaining terminal blocks.
3. Splice the opposite ends together (solder)
4. Slide a small piece of heat shrink onto the GND wire from the TRRS plug (Sleeve)
5. plice the ground wire from the TRRS to the joined wires from the terminal block (solder)

3. Speaker out connection

1. Separate the TS jack (female) from its protective sleeve and slide the sleeve over the opposite end of the speaker wire from the TRRS plug.
2. Solder the opposite end of the speaker wire to the tip connection of the TS Jack.

4. Test and Finish

1. Slide the heat shrink over the splice.
2. Test continuity from each position on the plug to the corresponding position on the terminal block, and from the TRRS tip to the TS jack tip connection.
3. When everything checks out, crimp the stress relief on the plugs and slide the sleeves up to screw them onto their connectors, and apply heat to the heat shrink.

Yaesu FT-1900R Side

I used all male for this side. As with the Digirig, just be consistent.

1. Prepare and crimp the RJ12 (if you’re NOT using a ready-made cable))

1. Cut off a length of 24/4 cable (length of your choosing), strip the cable at both ends
2. Either trim one of the wires on both ends or remove it from the cable (you only need 3 of the 4)
3. Strip and tin the inner wires at one end (only)
4. Slide the untinned wires into the RJ12. With the tab side down they go into the left-most 3 positions.
5. Crimp the connector and test the continuity from each wire to its corresponding connector positions.

2. Prepare RJ12 connection (if you ARE using a ready-made cable)

1. Cut the cable in two—you choose the length.
2. Strip the outer insulation to reveal the inner wires
3. Trim the rightmost 3 inner wires
4. Strip and tin the remaining inner wires)
5. Test continuity to see which wire goes to each of the leftmost connector positions (tab side down); Yaesu calls the connections 6 through 1 left to right: 6= PTT, 5=MIC, 4=GND

3. Make or modify a speaker cable

1. Make

1. Cut a length of speaker wire.
2. Strip and tin the ends.
3. Unscrew the protective sleeves from each of two TS plugs.
4. Slide one sleeve over both speaker wires at on ends.
5. Slide the other sleeve over the speaker out connection (usually the red wire), only, on the opposite end.
6. At the end with both wires covered, solder the ground (usually black) to the sleeve and speaker out (usually red) to the tip
7. On the other end solder the speaker out to the tip

OR

2. Modify

1. Cut the speaker ground wire near one of the plug ends, and separate a few inches of wire
2. Strip and tin the end.

4. 4. Connect RJ12 and speaker to terminal block (male)

1. Test continuity from each position on the plug to the corresponding position on the terminal block, and from the TRRS tip to the TS jack tip connection.
2. When everything checks out, crimp the stress relief on the plugs and slide the sleeves up to screw them onto their connectors, and apply heat to the heat shrink.

5. Test and Finish

1. Test continuity from each position on the RJ12 to the corresponding position on the terminal block, TS tip to TS tip, and TS sleeve to the terminal block connection for the GND on the opposite end.
2. When everything checks out, crimp the stress relief on the plugs and slide the sleeves up to screw them onto their connectors

Two Years of HF

This week I celebrated my second anniversary of being on HF. For you non-hams, that means the High Frequency bands. My antenna theoretically operates the bands from 40 meters to 10 meters (that's the approximate wavelength of the band:  7MHz to 29.7MHz).

I had passed the General Class exam (giving me privileges to operate on those bands) 3 weeks before, but needed a radio and antenna capable of working them.  With the help of my brother-in-law (non-ham but with considerable skills) we got it all set up and I made my first contacts: CT7AEQ in Portugal and HT7AAA in Nicaragua. A couple of days later I got a great lesson in propagation. I'm in Massachusetts, and heard OK2RZ in the Czech Republic talking to a station in Connecticut. I heard the Czech station clearly, but could not hear the CT station, less than 200 miles from here.  Anyway, I was next in line to work the Czech station and I was off and running.

In July 2016 I changed my call sign from KC1EXG to W1LEM, and in December 2016 I passed the Amateur Extra Class exam. I operate mostly on FT8 now, but I do QSO Parties and other events on phone (voice). I am learning Morse Code (CW), and have some CW contacts logged. More to come.

I have Worked All 50 US States (Mixed, Digital, Phone, FT8, 20 meters, and  20 meters digital) and 107 countries. As of this writing I have 7526 contacts recorded in Logbook of the World.

(Totals below do not match LOTW exactly due to different logging data sources, but it's a good picture of the distribution)

CW:            5
FT8:      5468 (started 2017-09-01--so far, 50 states and 93 countries)
JT9:          57
JT65:     1292 (I did JT9 & JT65 for 7 months--worked 49 states--not Maine--and 62 countries; FT8 is more enjoyable and I probably will never go back to the JT modes)
Phone:     584
PSK31:      44
RTTY:         1

10m:            3
12m:          34
15m:        313
17m:        775
20m:      4145
30m:        632
40m:      1517
60m:            3
80m:          27 (note that my G5RVjr antenna is not supposed to perform on 60m and 80m)

Ham Shack Major Upgrade

This is my little corner of the world. The new desk is almost finished. Key features:

1. about 7ft wide, 30" deep and 7ft high
2. 3 drawers on the left, room for 2 computers plus paraphernalia (UPS, ethernet switch, etc) on the right--I will add the second computer after I install AndysHamV21 on it
3. ~18" adjustable shelves on each side
4. top shelf holding misc items
5. middle shelf for stability and storage--and ultimately my on air sign 
6. 200mm computer case fan to cool the HF rig (Ten Tec Jupiter)
7. small, fixed shelf on the right to hold the 2M rig and power supply
8. my DIY 12V power strip (for the fan and sign)
9. pull-out keyboard shelf and pull out work/writing area
10. 8-outlet power strip (behid the monitors and radio)
11. 26" Samsung TV/monitor connected via HDMI cable
12. 21"  monitor connected via VGA cable through a KVM switch to both computers to facilitate sharing
13. pre-existing telephone jack now comes in through a wall plate in the desk side
14. 2" holes in several locations for wire management
15. notches in each of the 18" shelves to accommodate wires and cables

It took the equivalent of 4 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" plywood, plus some 2x4s for framing, some 1"x4" pine for trim, and some 1/2" plywood for the keyboard shelf. I put on 2 coats of stain plus 2 coats of polyurethane (8 coats on the desktop). We  used drawer slides from Rockler for the drawers and the pullouts

We also took the time to run the coax from the 2M and HF antennae across the ceiling and behind the wall. The desk is where the coax came into the shack anyway--it's just neater now, coming in through a wall plate and on to the radios,. We also ran the ethernet cables behind the walls. There had been cables all over the place. Now the ethernet runs:

• from the cable modem/wireless router into the wall across the ceiling to a dual wall plate
• from the dual wall plate an ethernet switch
• from the switch to the XYL's computer and another cable from the switch back into the wall plate
• from the wall plate across the ceiling to another wall plate under the desk
• from the wall plate to another switch that feeds each computer

Dual ethernet wall plate--cable comes from the cable modem/wireless router and into switch. One output from the switch goes to the XYL's desktop--the other goes back to the wall plate and on to the shack

I'm in heaven.  All credit goes to my brother-in law (the one with the skills). .This is a substantial piece of furniture. I can't get a clear shot to take a photo of the whole thing--it's too big. I still have a little work to do, but it's great!

12V DC Power Strip

Assembled and tested, ready for use

I have been busy with some projects lately, and have not been active on the blog. This effort is a small part of my desk project that will be on the blog soon (give or take...).  The desk will accommodate (among other things) my amateur radio equipment.  Amateur radio stuff generally runs off ~12V DC (actually closer to 13.8). There are DC power strips available commercially, but because they handle 30 Amps or more and are intended to be fed by a power supply designed for a radio, they are expensive. I just want to power a fan that cools the radio and a station "on air" sign, so I don't need that.

So, I got a Harbor Freight givaway 110VAC power strip, and took it apart.

I cut off the power cord (it will make an extension cord someday), removed the safety ground copper strip, and drilled out the slots for the prongs of AC plugs to accommodate DC binding posts.

Strip with holes drilled, and some posts installed. Note the mod to the red post on the right.

I cut off the threaded bottom parts to leave just the post (see photo).  Then I soldered the bare binding posts to the copper strips on the positive and negative rails, and screwed bottom back on.

Next I needed a 12V supply. I bought an old wall wart for US$2 at a "Hamfest" (that's basically a flea market for amateur radio people, although there can be some high priced stuff there). Since the jack on the wall wart was not standard, I cut it off and just soldered the wires to the wires to the power strip. It will handle 1250mA, which should be sufficient. As shown in the first photo, it worked. Next step: plug the 200mm computer case fan into the power strip.

Fan plugged into power strip

I'll add the On Air sign after Santa Claus brings it.

Preview of the desk. The blue light to the right of the monitor and behind the radio is the fan--it has 4 blues LEDs, powered by the wall wart through the power strip. My old desk is on the left. It will be removed soon.

I've been using the desk, although we have a couple of additions to make.  We'll add a slide-out drawer for the keyboard and mouse, and a pull-out work surface on the right, over the computers. We also have some trim to add. When I say "we" I mean my brother-in-law--the one with the skills--under my "supervision."

First 80M Contact--and I don't have an 80M antenna

My antenna is a G5RVjr--supposedly good on 10-40meters.  I use it on 20 and 40--I have had no success on other bands.

This week I'm chasing the Route 66 stations (see here), and I'm down to the last 3 out of 21.  Last night I was watching the spots for those 3.  One I couldn't hear, one couldn't hear me, and the other was on 80.  Just for grins, I went to see if I could hear it. I couldn't, but I did hear several other stations very clearly.  So, today I decided to see if I could transmit.  During the day I heard nothing.  Tonight there were no spots for Route 66 stations, but the New Jersey QSO Party was going on.  The first one I tried could not hear me, but another gave me a 59 signal report. First 80 meter QSO!

I have heard that it is possible to tune a 40m antenna for 80m but this is the first time I tried it.

Ambivalence re FT8

17:09 UTC today marked exactly one week of FT8 usage. For the 7 months preceding that, I had been focusing on JT9/JT65, and was amazed at how rapidly I was building up my list of contacts--640, at least 63 countries. FT8 puts that to shame: in ONE WEEK I had  312 QSOs with 29 countries. I worked 9 stations in my first 45 minutes using the mode.

FT8 is really addictive--it's hard to step away from--the instant response is great reinforcement.  I went back to JT65 the other day and found it WAY too slow. The difference is that you have to stay with FT8--on JT65 you can set it up and go do other work on the computer until you get an alert, then go back and jump in.

Right now, I love FT8.  It's a great way to build up contacts and fill in gaps for awards--as well as to communicate with the world (tiny messages notwithstanding). One negative I see now is that I expect to burn out on it--I can feel that starting to happen already. We'll see--the up side is that I've been motivated to go back to SSB at times--I've been in some contests, and I was able to work an Oklahoma station, which was the last state I needed for WAS Phone (now if I can just get 8 stations to return QSL cards...).

There is a philosophical discussion around whether FT8 is a real mode that should count for awards and such.   As a relatively new ham with no Morse Code nostalgia, I believe that there should be no distinction.  There are categories within the awards for various modes and bands, and those should satisfy the curmudgeons.  Amateur Radio has always been about  continuous improvement and use of new technology. To disparage people who do that is to disparage the service in an attempt to define a "real ham" in the image of one's own experience.

On the other hand, FT8 will take some getting used to.  It's different.  It's also fun and useful.

More on Worked All States Plus CQ WPX

In my last post on this subject, I mentioned that I just needed Maine for several endorsements. Well. I finally got Maine on FT8 on 40M, giving me WAS Digital.  I am still at 49, lacking Maine,  for WAS 20M and JT65.

Also, I made SSB contact with an Oklahoma station the other night, giving me WAS Phone, although I an awaiting 8 QSL cards for documentation. So, that's WAS Mixed, Digital, and Phone,

Meanwhile, I discovered the CQ WPX award, which counts prefixes. I qualify for WPX Mixed (400 contacts) ans WPX Digital (300) plus 20M and North America endorsements for both.  I was going to apply but LOTW wanted $56+ on top of the $12 CQ Magazine would charge for each.  I'll be happy with the accomplishment and forego the fancy certificates.